About Gyokuro
Gyokuro, meaning jade dew, is one of Japan's most prized green teas. For about three weeks before harvest the tea bushes are covered to block most of the sunlight. In the shade, the leaves make more chlorophyll and hold on to more L-theanine, the amino acid behind tea's savory umami taste, while producing fewer bitter catechins. Yame in Fukuoka and Uji in Kyoto are its best-known regions.
What it tastes like
Intensely savory and sweet, with a rich, almost brothy umami often compared to seaweed or fresh peas, a deep green color, and very little bitterness. The first steep, brewed cool and concentrated, can feel thick on the tongue.
Other ways to brew Gyokuro
Traditional, in a small pot
Use a lot of leaf in very little water: about 5 g (two heaping teaspoons) in 2–3 oz (60–90 ml) of water at 122–140°F (50–60°C). Steep 90 seconds to 2½ minutes and pour out every drop into small cups. The result is a few concentrated, savory sips.
In a mug
For a larger, lighter cup, use about 3 g per 6 oz (180 ml) of water at around 140°F (60°C) and steep 2 minutes. You'll lose some of the intensity, but it's still noticeably sweeter and more savory than sencha.
Cooling the water
Gyokuro needs much cooler water than most teas. Boil it, then pour it between empty cups or a pitcher three or four times, or let it sit with the lid off for about 10 minutes. A thermometer or variable-temperature kettle makes this much easier.
Ice brew (koridashi)
Put a few grams of gyokuro in a small pot or bowl, cover the leaves with ice cubes, and let them melt slowly, which takes 30 minutes to an hour. The result is a tiny amount of thick, intensely sweet, savory tea with no bitterness at all.
Can you re-steep Gyokuro?
Yes, three or four times. Each steep uses hotter water and less time, because the leaves are already open. After a 2-minute first steep at 122–140°F (50–60°C), try about 30 seconds at 160°F (70°C) for the second and around a minute at 175°F (80°C) for the third. The savory notes fade and the cup gets brighter and more astringent as you go.
Ways to drink Gyokuro
Kabusecha
Shaded for about a week instead of three, so it sits between sencha and gyokuro in sweetness and price. Brew it at around 140–160°F (60–70°C).
Tencha
Shaded like gyokuro, but dried flat without rolling. Tencha is mostly ground into matcha, though it's occasionally sold as loose leaf. Brew it like gyokuro, with cool water.
Gyokuro karigane
Made from the stems and twigs left over from gyokuro production. Sweet, light, and much cheaper, with some of gyokuro's savoriness. Brew it at about 160°F (70°C) for a minute.